Glycolic Acid
Hydroxyacetic acid
甘醇酸, 羥基乙酸
分子式:C2H4O3 分子量:76.05 Cas No:79-14-1
無色無味水溶性結晶體,為果酸(Alpha Hydroxy Acid)的一種,存在於甘蔗汁中,可使皮膚表皮表層之黏膠性脂質鬆軟,以利去除老舊角質,有加速細胞再生、減少皮膚皺紋及疤痕[1],增加皮膚光澤、美白等作用,由於甘醇酸在果酸中屬分子較小者,容易滲透進入皮膚內,是果酸當中作用最迅速的[1],常用於皮膚或頭髮產品中。甘醇酸略有刺激性,有些人使用後會有紅斑點的過敏反應。

濃度低於3%、酸鹼度高於3.5時,主要為加強保溼效果,當濃度大於6%、酸鹼度低於3.5時,對於粉刺痘痘的調理才較為有效,濃度越高效果越強,但刺激性也越大[2]。
[1] Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, http://en.wikipedia.org.
[2] 邱品齊,「認識你所不知道的藥妝品:皮膚科醫師特選篇」,大境,2010/03/18。
Chemical formula
2018-04-25
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在黑色素合成之後,加速皮膚更新

Reference:藥妝品學 Cosmeceuticals, 2nd edition

s
2020-08-22
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乙醇酸

a
2024-04-28
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【Glycolic Acid】

Rating: BEST
Benefits: Anti-Aging, Evens Skin Tone, Smooths Bumpy Skin
Categories: Exfoliant, Humectant, pH Adjuster/Stabilizer

* The most-researched AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) with a long history of safe use
* Helps renew skin’s surface, visibly improving several signs of aging
* Significantly increases skin’s hydration
* New research shows it may protect skin from UV damage

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that, like other ingredients in the category, can act as a water-binding agent and, when properly formulated and used in concentrations of 5% or greater, as an exfoliant. While there are several other types of AHA, glycolic acid is by far the one with the most research backing its effectiveness.

In its capacity as an exfoliant, it can help shed dead skin to renew skin’s surface, which results in the improvement of several signs of aging, including sun damage, uneven tone, rough, flaky patches of skin, fine lines, and wrinkles. These benefits are obtainable by choosing a leave-on AHA exfoliant that contains 5–10% glycolic acid when it is used as the sole exfoliating acid. It must also be formulated at a pH between 3-4, which is where optimal exfoliation occurs.

Studies also show that glycolic acid significantly increases skin’s hydration. It does this by helping skin make substances like mucopolysaccharides, which aid hydration by increasing skin’s natural content of hyaluronic acid, which in turn enhances resilience and improves texture.

One exciting new note about glycolic acid: emerging research shows it might even protect skin against UV damage (in addition to reducing its damaging after-effects), though more studies need to be done (and of course it doesn’t replace the need for sunscreen). It’s worth noting that most AHA products do carry a warning about unprotected sun exposure, since the manner in which AHAs exfoliate reveals fresh new skin that can be more susceptible to sun damage.

Glycolic acid occurs naturally in sugar cane, but is most effective when synthesized in a lab, where its potency and concentration are optimized for use in skin care. Using plant sugars, like sugar maple, for their glycolic acid content is an option, but the bulk of the reimized for effectiveness, purity, stability, and pH, all critical to getting effective glycolic acid products.

https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient-glycolic-acid.html

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